Sardinia (Oct. 2006)

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Photo: the south coast of Sardinia near Teulada en route to Cagliari
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We had been in Carloforte on the Island of Saint Pietro for about ten days and decided to explore the west coast of Sardinia before heading for Cagliari, our winter destination. The Mediterranean climate was to give us at least another month of good sailing weather, so why not make good use of it. Waiting for the winds to become favourable southerlies was not tedious as we were enjoying Carloforte, cycling around Isola San Pietro and taking the ferry to nearby towns for day-trips.
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Photo: Roam off Tharros at sun-up preparing to sail.

So, on October 10th we began sailing north the 90 nautical miles, overnighting halfway in an anchorage off the ruins of a Roman town, Tharros, in the Gulf of Oristano. Approaching Oristano Bay we were treated to the antics of several Italian Air Force fighter jets practising runs on "targets" in the bay - screaming right overhead us for two hours. In the anchorage we met up with Terry and Fiona on Roam whom we had not seen since leaving Gibraltar. Of course it was a given that the partying went on until quite late - the next morning's early departure proved a tad difficult.
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Photo: Alghero Port satelite view - Google Earth picture.

Arriving late afternoon in Alghero we opted for Marina Ser-Mar rather than the "free" town docks which were run by "ommerggiatori" (dock supervisors), notorious for hassling transient cruisers who were not inclined to pay the exorbitant fees (30 euros per night) for the "optional" water and electrical hookups. Roam, who are British flagged, had been bothered by the local police and customs (often in league with the ommergiatori) and we did not wish awkward questions asked by immigration officials about our now over-extended stay in the E.U.
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Photo: Porto Conte near Alghero - superb anchorages.
Alghero is a very pretty old walled city with the new city extending around it, apart from the waterfront. It is a touristy place, but the height of the tourist season was over and apart from a couple of cruise ships anchored in the bay occasionally disgorging large tenders of large Germans (or much smaller Japanese) into the town, it was quiet. We took our bicycles on the bus to "Neptunes Grotto" (immense limestone caves complete with stalactites and stalagmites) and biked the 25K slowly back along the coastline, stopping at more Roman ruins (they are everywhere but it is still hard to become indifferent about them).
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Photo: Bosa from across its river.
A day bus trip along the south coast road to Bosa returning inland through the mountains gave us a glimpse of Sardinia's interior: mountainous, rocky, olive and cork treed, grazing sheep herds with tinkling bells and villages perched on hillsides. We intend to see much more of it. Sasari, Sardinia's second largest city is a 25 minute train ride from Alghero. Our bikes were 3 euros extra but they got us around the city to the archaelogical museum and cathedral. The weather was gorgeous the whole time we were north.
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We left Alghero on the 27th October for the four-day sail south to Cagliari. The northerly winds that we had to wait weeks for became light easterlies then stronger south easterlies by mid afternoon, so once again, the sailing became motoring into a chop. Stopping again on the mooring balls in Golfo di Oristano off Tharros for the night was an easy option. The second day we were able to sail for a few hours as the weather forecast was right for a change - we reached Carloforte by 5 p.m.
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Photo: Brian enjoying a pizza lunch after a hard bike on San Pietro.
The third day of travel to Teulada had us motoring three hours and sailing four, dropping the hook in a protected bay off... yes, more Roman ruins. Brian dove on the anchor to ensure it was well in after the first attempt failed on a rocky bottom, then he cleaned off the propeller which actually had very little growth on it. The water was still quite warm - a real bonus to be able to swim in the ocean in late October.
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Photo: Debby reading on the beach on Isola Antioco.

Cagliari was reached at 1430 the fourth day - motoring and motor-sailing in light winds, and avoiding the many oil tankers approaching the offshore teminal. It was nice to be greeted by the marina staff in a zodiac and helped into our slip by Terry and Fiona. We invited them aboard for a glass of wine and before we knew it ten people were aboard (all Brits) and a great party going with guitars and singing! A super welcome by the live-aboard winter community.
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Cagliari is the capital city of Sardinia. As with most capitals it is cosmopolitan, resplendent with beautiful buildings, cathedrals, Roman ruins, lush parks, many diverse cultural activities, busy roads, and most things one would need. It will be an excellent place to stay the winter, and the price for the marina (Marina Del Sole - family-run) is right at less than 4 euros a day! We joined the health club (gym and pool) across the road and are swimming regularly (Deborah more than Brian but Brian is treadmill-jogging also). Of course we are biking our buns all over the city. There is currently a jazz festival going on and we went to a professional soccer game, Cagliari upsetting top team Palermo (Sicily) 1- 0 to the delight of the 15 000 or so roaring singing fans.
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New Zealand Steinlager 2, which won the Whitbread Around the World race in 1989-90 captained by Sir Peter Blake, was in the marina next to us (in full view) and lifted out to check the hull and saildrive before sailing back to the Italian mainland (see photo). She was purchased by Italy and is used for crew training. Great moment for Brian.
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Debby took Italian lessons, an intensive 30 hour course which helps her communication with the natives immensely. Brian continues to mime and draws pictures a lot but is increasing his nautical vocabulary in the chandleries. The fifteen or so live-boards here are a really nice bunch and the winter should fly by with many social activities. Yes, there is "work" to be done on Chinook (as always) but nothing extensive. A haul out is planned in March to check and clean "herself's" bottom before cruising Sardinia's east coast and Corsica.
A flying trip for a month in Ontario in December and January with family and friends. Debby will also fly out to B.C. for two weeks to visit her son Andrew while Brian is reclining in his dentist's chair for some extensive (and expensive) work on the few remaining ageing teeth. We will be thinking of you all over the Christmas season.
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Ciao for now amicos, Brian and Deborah.

Photos below: the fans cheering on wining Cagliari, an archaelogical "dig" near Carloforte, Chinook tied up in the marina in Alghero and a couple of ancient ruins in ancient ruins.